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Saddleback Mountain from Tunney Road
- Saddleback Falls
Saddleback Brook above the Falls
Waterfall Detail: The first post master for the area was John McCormack. This area was homesteaded by many settlers in particular our Irish Immigrants. The settlement of Saddleback (also known as Mackville) is long gone but their influence remains with geographical names such as Duffy Brook, Tunney Road and Culligan Brook. It is strengthened by the catholic cemetery at the turn off to Vaughn Creek North Road. It is found on the western side of the road about 2 kilometers from Hillsdale. Although the earliest date is 1842, for Mary Houlahan, the next earliest dates are in the 1860’s. The Saddleback Roman Catholic Church no longer exists but there is an outline of where the church did stand at one time.
Flowing southeasterly, the brook begins in the nape of Saddleback Mountain southwest of Sussex which is the divide between the Hammond and Big Salmon Rivers. For the most part it meanders through alder swales and dead water collecting liveliness from brooks and creeks along its journey. It begins to converge as it tumbles toward Northwest Branch Big Salmon River and eventually the Big Salmon River Gorge. The sweeping vale forms an expansive meadow at the headwaters until narrowing slightly at the waterfalls.
Above the waterfall there is no ravine but an open meadow. The ravine below the falls tails away quickly and opens into yet another meadow yet restricted meadow. This watercourse is unusual for the area in that others are within a narrow ravine such as its sister Fall Brook which has a totally different nature. (Saddleback & Fall Brook join to form the Northwest Branch Big Salmon River)
There are so many old logging roads leading in the area. Some used over 100 years ago and are overgrown by the forest and yet others are maintained and used by ATV enthusiast. There may be a direct route but I reckon it is blocked by a beaver pond. The location of the falls means it is a long hike in until the beaver ponds are removed. This will mostly like not occur until logging activity in this area begins.
Visit Detail: Driving from Sussex Corner towards St. Martins on rout 111 we turned onto Saddleback Road at Devine Corner and drove out about 3 km and parked near the Catholic Cemetery at the Vaughn Creek North Road turn off. Unloading the ATV’s and camera gear little did we know what was intended to be a quick run to a couple of waterfalls on the Saddleback Brook would end up becoming an all day event?
Set to go we start in the Saddleback Road stopping once to checkout an old house now almost reclaimed by nature. After crossing the divide in the land we entered into the Saddleback and turned left to follow a logging road leading up into the notch forming the southern flank of Saddleback Mountain. Within minutes we encountered our first of many obstacles of the day. The road is completely covered over by a large beaver pond. Checking it out we decide it was too deep and therefore back tracked and take an alternate route. Returning to Saddleback Road we drove south and in minutes our way is once again blocked by the same beaver pond. The industrious castor canadensis “The Beaver” have taken ownership of the entire meadow and there is absolutely nothing we can do about it except adapt.
Exhausting our search for a circuitous route we headed back the way we came and decided to drive up around Saddleback Mountain on its north flank. Ascending the rough and washed-out Tunney Road was an event in itself and driving back down later in the day was even more exhilarating. Upon reaching MacDonald Road at the top of the plateau we headed south around the mountain.
From here it is a maze. I followed the “Intrepid Gallant” as we weaved and bobbed around multiple blow downs along the various old logging roads. On several occasions we are forced into the woods around obstacles, forded washed out culverts and into stream beds where bridges are washed away. Smaller blow downs we simply drove through. The small alders snapping against our helmets.
Within striking distance of our destination we are once again thwarted by the creature on the back of our nickel. At this point I question those academics and citizens of urban Canada who want to remove the beaver as our national animal. I say come out into the wilds of Canada and experience their ingenuity and engineering firsthand and you will stand, like we are, unpacking photographic equipment and beginning to hike the final kilometer to the waterfall.
At least the weather cooperated. The temperature at +9C was very comfortable as we hiked down the old woods road to the brook and then up to the waterfall. The over night temperature and cold water fashioned icicles and crystalline formations on the rock outcrops.
Waterfall Detail: Just below the confluence of Black Brook are remnants of an old (driving) dam. There are indications that this dam constructed of cedar timber held back a substantial amount of water. Odds and ends can be found well up on the hillside on either side signifying the height of the dam. Our abundant forests became an important source of timber for Great Britain when their traditional supply from the countries around the Baltic Sea was cut off during the Napoleonic Wars. This hastened the lumbering activities in New Brunswick, which quickly became the economic driver of the period. In the following report laid before the Legislature by command of His Excellency the Lieutenant Governor, Sir Edmund Walker Head in 1852 we comprehend the devastating affects lumbering has on river fisheries.
“At Goose Creek, about three miles above the head, there is, as elsewhere, a mill-dam which wholly prevents the passage of fish. This dam was built twelve years ago; before that time, salmon ascended the stream in considerable numbers but of late years, none whatsoever have been seen, even at the entrance.” Reports on The Sea and River Fisheries of New Brunswick, by M.H. Perley, Esquire.
Life in the lumber camps was hard and dangerous and living conditions in the camps were at best rudimentary. The work of the logger was defined only by seasonal conditions and available daylight. During the winter months, trees were felled and collected. In the spring, the most exciting event in the life of a lumber camp was the log drive, an event that had all the elements of a thrilling adventure: exhilarating work, spine-tingling action and hair-raising danger.
Goose Creek rises in marshy bogs located throughout the plateau formed by the Caledonia Highlands. These highlands are affected by weather produced by the Bay of Fundy which can deliver above normal rainfall along this formidable coastline. In these bogs, black spruce and larch live in a thick carpet of sphagnum moss. No taller than a person, these diminutive trees have lived here for more than a century. A lack of nutrients in naturally acidic soil is a major constraint to their growth. Some bog plants have found ways to supplement their meager diets by catching and consuming insects. Three species of insectivorous plants are the pitcher plant, sundew and bladderwort. These bogs and streams support many animals in particular moose and beaver that feed on pond lilies. Similar to other waterways in this region, it is these diverse ecosystems that kindle them, and like all, Goose Creek as well, has carved a deep ravine through the bedrock producing a roguish watercourse.
Visit Detail: Wisps of morning haze intermingle and cling to the hills and trees along Trout Brook. Accompanying my drive is a warm summer breeze as I wind along through this gorgeous valley heading towards Adair’s Wilderness Lodge. By the time I arrive the haze has dissipated and what promises to be a sultry day has begun in earnest.
Today, Terry Gallant and I are heading into Goose Creek to look at several waterfalls but before leaving we decide to have piece of homemade apple pie and coffee at Adair’s. It is busy on this Saturday morning, an acknowledgment to fine cooking and service. By 10 o’clock it is stifling hot as we unload the ATV’s alongside a logging road and begin our 20 minute ride to a cut road that leads to the creek. The ride is really enjoyable as the road is grown over with grass and low shrub which eliminates dust and on either side is 10’ black spruce. Eventually the road gives way to the forest and we park, unload and make ready for a day of exploration.
This is when I make a critical mistake that will haunt me later in the day. Once in the woods we head down a gentle slope to the creek. The horse flies are monstrous and unrelenting as we meander towards our destination. Our plan is to hike down along the western flank of the creek to where we believe is the first of several waterfalls and then make our way up the creek. At times we walk in the creek to free ourselves from our pest and in due time we are forced back up along the ridge to bypass waterfalls that we would photographer later.
Satisfied that we are below the last waterfall we turn and begin hiking up the creek. Goose Creek is just outstanding in its diversity of flora and geological highlights. There are several settings where the sheer cliffs have been worn to bare rock and used as slides to drop timber into the ravine. Other locations the ravine are only metres wide. One of the highlights of the hike is the remnants of an old driving dam. It is also a transition where the sheerness of the ravine abates and widens. There is also a transition from a bedrock bed to that of gravel. There is also more sunlight reaching into the ravine and a change in trees from cedar and spruce to hardwoods.
Hiking past the point we entered the ravine 90 minutes earlier we continued further up to photograph two (2) additional waterfalls. Reaching the last waterfall of the day was the point that dehydration (my mistake) really kicked me in the behind. I finished off my drinking water earlier in the day and I was now in trouble. It was tolerable up to this point as I continually cooled myself by cupping water with my ball cap and pouring it over my head. My saving grace was that I had extra water at the ATV.
The hike out of the ravine should have been easy but in my state of dehydration I could barely climb several metres at a time. Stopping three (3) times to rest. At the ATV’s I drank a bottle of water and gulped down two Advil. The ride back to the truck was refreshing. After departing I drove to the Travel Bureau at Whites Cove and parked. Exhausted, I rolled down the windows and slept for an hour before continuing home.
Waterfall Detail: Situated in the lofty hills that divide the Nepisiguit River System from the Jacquet and Tetagouche Rivers is the headwaters of the South Branch Forty Mile Brook. Energized by several tributaries, meadows and small lakes located in these hills the brook rushes enthusiastically towards the Nepisiguit River. Caught up in this enthusiasm is the beautiful Rainbow Falls. It is not the stature that distinguishes the falls but its location.
This is hunting country and for over 200 years sports made the trip to the Nepisiguit Woods to hunt Caribou, Moose, Deer and Bear.
“ It was the custom for each to take his own guides and hunt separately, making trips of two or three days down the Nepisiguit, or back from the valley into the hills that extended as far as one could see on either side of the river, where the best possibilities for bears and caribou would be. On the morning of the fifteenth of September I had returned to the home camp after a fruitless night watch in the alders at a bogan down the river for the chance of a shot at a moose. The night had been indeed a watchful one, for we had apparently encroached upon the happy hunting grounds of a pair of great-horned owls which flitted like gigantic bats from one dead tree to another, with demoniacal screams.” “On the eastern side a high rocky ridge arose, making the plain seem more like a valley than the high plateau which it really was. About a mile away at the foot of the gentle northerly slope of our mountain was a line of green running into the dull tints of the open country, and beyond that a rocky hill on which a number of dead trees still stood, gray and fire-scarred.”
This excerpt from The Black Moose: Hunting Trip on the Nepisiguit River, Richard D. Ware, wrote in the, In The Woods an On The Shore magazine depicting a typical moose hunt along the mountain ridges and valleys of the Nepisiguit River.
Driving north on Route 11, take exit 304 to Bathurst. Drive away from the city on Route 430 west toward the community of Bathurst Mines. Continue past the mines turnoff. The road will change to gravel. This is the Nepisiguit River Road. Continue on until coordinate N 47 24’ 08.4/ W 066 09’ 16.5” and turn right and drive up the road a distance of 1.5 Km. There is a sign indicating the trailhead. Regardless the trail is easy to identify. There is plenty of space to park off to one side. The trail winds down into the gorge a distance of about 500 metres and emerges at the southern end of a large pool. You can hear the sound of the waterfall on the hike down.
Visit Detail: On a beautiful August morning I am with Rod O’Connell of Nigadoo and Karl Branch of Bathurst. This is our first stop of what will be a long day as we also plan to visit Indian and Buck Falls. All three are relatively close to each other. Both Rod and Karl are very familiar with the Nepisiguit River and its many tributaries.
From the Nepisiguit River Road we drove up the side road to the trail head. Near the trail head there is a cairn established honour the soul of Jacque Godin. It is apparent that Jacque had a deep appreciation for the Nepisiguit River.
Instead of hiking down the steep trail, we decided to drive into the crown lease camp just down from the waterfalls. From here we made the easier walk to the edge of the large pool at the base of the falls. The setting for Rainbow Falls is absolutely stunning. It is a very relaxing area, so much so we are all sitting along the edge of the pool enjoying the spectacle.
The waterfall is nestled in a mixed forest and is orientated such that the late afternoon sun fails to reach the pool. As the sun drops close to the horizon, the rays must be captured by the mist and thus changing the wavelength of the sunlight to produce the colours.
On this visit the sun is directly over the falls and pool making it difficult to photograph. The orientation and location of the falls also make it difficult to approach the falls. Regardless, I really enjoyed the visit. I also suggest that visitors use the trail provided.
Waterfall Detail: In Alan Rayburn book, Geographical Names of New Brunswick it states that Antinouri Lake & Brook was probably named for Anthony Ree, a Bathurst hunter and was probably given by Michael Hanley who surveyed the area in 1850. Regardless on origin it is an unusual name. The lake is known by many and is a favorite location for hunting, fishing and canoeing.
This region of our province contains a number of major rivers, some of which have carved deep gorges in the bedrock. The deep gorge created by the Jacquet River and its tributaries dominate this wilderness area and have produced many gulches and waterfalls. In this neck of the woods ravines or gorges are called gulches and in this watershed there are numerous. One of the most arresting waterfalls is the Antinouri Brook Falls. The lake of the same name and Doyles Meadow fuel the brook.
The watershed has considerable ecological features and because of this it is one of New Brunswick natural protected area. In 2009 & 2010 the New Brunswick Museum conducted a BioBlitz which is a special type of field study where a group of scientists and volunteers conduct an intensive biological inventory, attempting to identify and record all species of living organisms in a given area. Botanists found patches of orchids and rare ferns in heavy concentrations. As well they have already found rare and probably endangered species such as a small mushroom not been seen in Canada since about 1900, and then only in Newfoundland. This will probably be one of a very few spots in North America where it has turned up.
The area includes some of the largest freshwater wetlands in north-eastern New Brunswick, excellent salmon nursery habitat in the Jacquet River System, and old-growth forests along the steep ravines. “…….waterways as active healthy rivers that sustain habitats and biodiversity rather than just plumbing systems for the benefit of humankind.” Peter McBride
To visit the waterfalls you must leave Route 11 near Jacquet River at exit 351 and drive north toward the Chaleur Bay on Jacquet River Drive. Look for Mitchell Road on the right about 500 metres down this road. Drive out Mitchell Road approximately 1.5 Km until the Y in the road. Take the road on the right and head south towards Mitchell Settlement. From the Y to the trailhead is just over 8 Km. The trailhead (old logging road) is at N47 49’ 41” / W 066 0’ 25”
Visit Detail: I remember coming out to Antinouri Lake with my father and uncles on fishing trips. This would be adventure, driving from Dalhousie in the back seat of the 1956 Ford Galaxy with my older brother and then heading for Belledune to visit relatives. Part of the mystic and excitement was exploring the abandoned quarry. On one particular jaunt a bull moose made its way along the shore and chased us out of the area. We then drove to a location on the northern shore only to be chased again. For a youngster this was extremely exciting but for my father and uncles it became annoying. You can well determine the topic of discussion on the drive out.
So it was with great excitement that I met Rod O’Connell at Antinouri Lake where I took a few photographs and spent time reminiscing. We left one vehicle near the lake before driving back toward Mitchell Settlement and the trailhead. Along the way we stopped to check out Doyles Meadow. A quick inspection shows that the meadow looks relatively parched, which may mean a trickle of a waterfall. Parked alongside the Mitchell Settlement Road and the trailhead we gear up and head out.
After an evening of rain the old woods road is strewn with puddles causing us to zigzag our way along. Eventually we reach the brook. It is late August and as we suspected the brook is a bit on the low side. Rod O’Connell and I discuss whether there is sufficient water to produce a beautiful waterfall. Regardless we are here and decide to persist. We walked along keeping the ravine on our right checking our GPS units. The old road began to veer away from our intended destination so we decided to bushwhack directly to the falls. In several minute we are at the edge of the ravine.
Descending, the rich aroma of cedar greets us and in minutes it becomes apparent that there will be no waterfall show on this morning. There was scant amount of water snaking down the lower section of the falls, as for the upper section; what would be the more dramatic of the two sections, the sound of water was pervasive but unseen. This was my first time exposed to a dry waterfall.
Waterfall Detail: The Upsalquitch River is corrupted from the Mk’ gmaq, Absetquetch meaning “small river” (when compared to the Restigouche River). The river has two main branches, the gentler northwest that hugs the deep valleys of the Appalachian Mountains and the southeast branch that runs northerly in a geological fault line through the mountains, thus slicing the geology to form an impressive river valley. This is most evident at the Southeast (Upsalquitch) Gorge. The branches join at what is known as the Forks and continue through a broad valley to the Restigouche River.
In 1902, William Francis Ganong travelled down Southeast Branch from Upsalquitch Lake to the forks, continuing to the confluence with the Restigouche River. Previous to this trip scant information was documented about the river system. In his report on the Natural History and Physiography of New Brunswick, he describes the southeast branch as; “It issues from the deep valley of Upsalquitch Lake over a typical drift dam. Immediately, the valley opens out greatly, and the river, here very small, wanders about with a gentle current over drift in a flat country, at times almost smothered in alders until eight miles from the lake, it plunges into a typical post-glacial gorge two miles in length, in which the water by a series of falls and rocky rapids drops some 150 feet. In the gorge are two sets of beautiful falls, one near the head of the gorge, of some three or four regular pitches, in all about forty feet, and another a quarter mile lower down, also some three or four pitches, an upper nearly vertical of twenty feet, and a lower, also vertical, of ten feet. The walls are here very steep and close together and with their summit of forest present a wild and beautiful aspect. Altogether the gorge and falls deserve to rank among the finer of the province, although owing to the small size of the river they are surpassed in magnitude by several others”
The location of lower falls is unusual in that it is not situated at the top of the gorge but near the end of the gorge proper. The gorge itself continues further down river beyond this point but its sheerness diminishes with the transition to a softer rock formation. This waterfall is located at the transition from the harder igneous volcanic rock to the softer siltstone.
The area is steeped in logging history and was once a base camp for activities managed out of the NBIP paper mill in Dalhousie. This particular location was used as a staging area. The logging road has recently been graded and cutback making the drive easy. As well the bridge at Simpson Field has been replaced indicating renewed forestry operations in the area.
Driving along route 180, or what is known as “The Road to Resources” from either Bathurst or St. Quentin turn at waypoint N 47 32’ 20.11” / W 066 30’16.61”. This road leads down along the west side of the Southeast Upsalquitch. Drive approximately 4 km and park at waypoint N 47 33’ 11.8” / W 066 31’ 27.77”. Just before the waypoint you will drive across a logging bridge spanning the Southeast Upsalquitch River. There will be an old woods road on the left. Walk down this road, it will turn to brush and eventual end at somewhat of a clearing. Look for the trail that leads to the upper falls. To get to the lower falls, drive back across the bridge along the same woods road to waypoint N 47 33’ 02.22” / W 066 31’ 44.12”. This is the old Ramsay Portage Portage Road. Drive down this road approximately 1 km to waypoint N 47 33’ 32” / W 066 32’ 16.” and park. Hike to the waypoint N 47 33’ 28.7” / W 066 31’ 55.7”
Visit Detail: Day 1: Following the old logging road from Simpsons Field we walked to a area with remnants of buildings and alders. This was the location of the Southeast Depot where NBIP Woodlands Division operated from 1940 through 70’s. There was a flushing dam constructed just down river above the upper falls and was used to sluice pulp wood down through the gorge. My friend Rod O’Connell leads the way through the brush and picks up a trail down along the eastern side of the river.
Along the way the river changes character warning us that the upper falls is nearby. Invitingly warm, the late afternoon sun provides comfort as we scramble over the rock formation that marks the beginning of the gorge. There is a series of four waterfalls in this upper complex. It is here that the sheerness of the fissure is exposed. The western side provides a rampart of sorts, curling the river back to the east where a large pool is produced before it continues down through the fault in a series of waterfalls to crash against sheer walls of rock.
After photographing this section we decided to continue down river to the lower falls. Unsure of it exact location we anticipate that it cannot be that far. Not many people have been down below the upper falls and this is confirmed by the fact that beyond this point there is no trail, so in order to continue further we are relegated to bushwhacking through a maze of fallen trees and large boulders. A deep carpet of moss cloaks the space between boulders adding to the difficult walk. Several times we both step through the moss into the fissure between boulders. It is very slow moving through the thick brush but eventually we emerge at what we think is the top of the lower falls. Instead of both of scouting the area below the rock face I decided to stay and photography one of the many waterfalls. Rod returns with news that it must be further on. Nearly 5 PM we decide to retreat and leave the lower falls for another visit.
Day 2: Awake at 6:30 AM and minutes later I am dressed and ready for a quick coffee and toast. I am on the road by 7:00 driving from my sister’s home in Dalhousie to Bathurst to rendezvous with Rod and Karl Branch. From Bathurst we head out on second day of waterfalling (See post for Rainbow, Buck & Indian Falls).
Parked in an old clear cut we head east through the woods towards the gorge. In little time we begin a steep descent into the gorge, hanging onto trees and roots to emerge at the river about 200 metres below the lower falls. The gorge at this location is wide but tappers quickly near the falls. Our pace up along the river is hampered by thick brush, moss laden boulders and high water as well as the edge of the gorge as it begins to pinch into the river.
The lower falls can be heard but not seen until we traverse over a sharp outcrop. At this spot the river is less than 3 metres wide. We are required to jump from boulder to boulder across the top of the lower falls to gain a clear view of the most impressive of all the falls. This is a wondrous place. In this narrow twisting rift the sound of the river rushing through is thunderous and I experience an awakening. “If you want to learn about nature, to appreciate nature, it is necessary to understand the language that she speaks in.” Richard Feynman
The sheerness of the walls blocks the sun from entering the gorge even though it is a cloudless sky. It is safe to surmise that the midday sun reaches into the abyss momentarily before it returns back into shadows and in mid-winter the area remains in shadow. After I am done photographing from my vantage point Rod suggests that I climb to a rock outcrop that provides an unobstructed view. With Karl’s help I make it to this point and while he holds onto the camera strap; I photograph the stunning waterfalls.
Climbing out of the gorge is taxing as we clutch to trees and thick moss in a slow ascent. Eventually the terrain begins to taper and the gradient become manageable. Scars of past timbering operations remain as new growth fill the gaps. There is fresh survey lines marked through the area indicating possible renewed timber harvesting or new mineral exploration. I cannot understand why this part of the Upsalquitch is not protected by our government. Maybe my pictures might be the last we see of this magnificent river gorge and waterfall complex.
Back at the truck, I enjoy a cup of Rod’s tea. I must say that he does make a wicked cup of King Cole. After a quick snack we drive down the Ramsay Portage which was extensively used to bypass the Southeast Gorge. The road leads down from Simpsons Field to the Southeast Upsalquitch River. At this location there was a lumber camp located along the flats near the river. The river at this point has already begun to widen. Just below this clearing is Ramsay Brook and just above on the opposite is Murray Brook. Both are formed by the small geological fault line. This has been an adventure. Thanks to Rod O’Connell and Karl Branch.
Waterfall Detail: New Brunswick’s Fundy Coastline pounds the senses with its intoxicating beauty. Much of this section of the Bay of Fundy from St. Martins to Alma is inaccessible wilderness. It is outlined by varied geological landscape of breathtaking cliffs, eroded sandstone sculptures and dramatic mud flats. The giant tides continually erode the towering sea cliffs and wash the shores exposing interesting rocks and fossils. Inland the many rivers etch away at the rock revealing fascinating geology dating back hundreds of millions of years.
“The diversity of geology along the Bay of Fundy could stand on its own as a ‘must see’. The cross section of geological time exposed by the tides highlights the formation and subsequent break up of Pangaea, and the evolution of the Bay, over the last 400 million years, into the structure we know today. Examples of a wide variety of geological and paleontological processes can be found along Fundy shores. Continental drift and plate tectonics, igneous intrusions and volcanic eruptions, changing climates, ancient environments, the development of the plant and animal life, the world’s oldest reptiles and Canada’s earliest dinosaurs, the list goes on…”- Ken Adams, Director/Curator, Fundy Geological Museum, Parrsboro, Nova Scotia, 2006
Once called Foundes Brook, the Big Rody is a tributary of the Big Salmon River located just north of the Fundy Parkway and east of St. Martins. With meager beginnings at Rody Lake the brook quickly changes in character to a turbulent watercourse as it drops over 500 feet in 5 km through the Caledonia Highlands to the Big Salmon River. These majestic highlands are carved by numerous rivers, brooks and stream all heading for the Bay of Fundy. In its rowdy run it has several waterfalls of which two are simply outstanding. The gorge contains sheer cliffs that rise well over 100’ encasing both, making access tenuous and exciting. This part of the parkway is undeveloped and has few visitors except for individuals searching for a private location to fish or waterfall enthusiast.
Drive out to St. Martins and continue through the village heading east towards the Fundy Trail Parkway. Approximately 2 Km before the entrance to the Parkway lookout for Little Beach Road on the left (There is a house on the opposite side). Turn and drive out this road 2.4 Km and take the Big Salmon River Road on the right and drive out this road 3.3 Km. There will be woods road on the left. You will need a 4×4, ATV, mountain bike or walk from this point. Follow this old cut road until N45 25’ 44.76” / W065 27’ 14.23” or 1.2 Km. Hike down over the bank to the brook. Mark this location on you GPS or with marking tape. Hike downstream 1.5 Km to the first of many waterfalls.
On our trip we returned by hiking from the last waterfall photographed to the top of the plateau and then following the ridgeline back to where we hiked down to the brook. I suggest working your way back up the brook.
Visit Detail: Everything is drenched and we are soaked as we weave our way through black spruce clinging to the cliffs above the rushing waters of the Big Rody. Terry Gallant and I are working our way down into the gorge above what we believe is a couple of kilometers above the first waterfall. We decided to take a run at the Big Rody regardless of the weather and today’s weather is taxing our resolve.
The rain is relentless when we come upon the apex of the first waterfall. The tree line below the falls drops considerably indicating a high plummet. It is impossible to climb down along the falls due to its orientation. There are three drops totaling well over 80 feet. Forced to climb up and around the falls we chose the left side, as it will allow us to climb down into the middle bowl. After 20 minute we finally make it down into the bowl just below the second pitch. Unfortunately we are unable to photograph the upper pitch, which is the more dramatic. We conclude that if we had a long rope one of us could repel down to a vantage point allowing it to be photographed. Soaking wet and with no rope we decide it will have to wait for another trip. From here we climbed out of the bowl and made our way to the base of the third pitch (picture) by grappling to tree roots and rock. There are apples and orange peels washed up on the sandbar at the back of the pool, indicating others have been here this summer.
Continuing downstream a further 100 metres we came upon a series of smaller cascades. After exploring these we hiked down along the right side of the gorge emerging at the top of another lofty waterfall. Again we were forced to climb up and around the rocky outcrop due to sheer cliffs rising 100’ skyward. We descended to the base along a small creek and another waterfall that we would photograph later.
This waterfall has three drops and is much easier to photograph than the upper falls. Both tired and soaking wet we decided to head back. Instead of hiking back along the brook we climbed to the top of the ridge and hiked along the edge of an old clear cut. Several times we had to back track and in doing so we stumbled upon the remains of an old logging camp. Back at the truck we changed into dry cloth and headed for St. Martins and hot bowl of Seafood Chowder and homemade rolls at Cave View Family Restaurant.
Waterfall Detail: The Digdeguash River originates from a series of springs near McAdam and flows to the southeast before emptying into Passamaquoddy Bay. It is relatively shallow and flows over exposed bedrock. This combination produces many small waterfalls and rough water throughout its length.
The falls at Wymans Bridge is similar to others located further down stream. What makes it stand out is the beautiful location. The river makes a left hand turn as it collides with rock face along it western edge. The river slices through the bedrock forming a slide. There is no large pool at the base of this waterfall. Beyond the falls the river opens again and continues to twist and turn.
The Wyman Road is located 3.4 kilometers south of Lawrence Station on Route 127. Drive in the road approximately 380 metres and park along the shoulder of the road just before the bridge. There is a trail leading from the road to a clearing near the waterfall.
Visit Detail: I was informed of this waterfall by a Kayak enthusiast and decided too take a drive out one Sunday. One of the things that caught my attention was the amount of debris and trees stuck in the cross members of the bailey bridge. The bottom of the bridge is about 3 meters above the river and I could not figure out what would cause this.
I walked down the western side of the river to an open area. It is apparent that the site is used for camping. Within a few minutes I heard the sound of an ATV approaching through the woods. It was during my conversation with the owner that the mystery was revealed. Last Decembers heavy rains produced flash floods in Charlotte County causing millions of dollars in damage. The debris was left in the bridge after the water levels receded.
He showed me a sluiceway that was constructed by DOT to channel water away from the bridge in case of future storms. After he left, I photographed the waterfall for about 20 or minutes.
Waterfall Detail: Arthur P. Silver in his book “Farm-Cottage, Camp and Canoe in Maritime Canada” 1907 writes about the problem of driving logs over the Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit River: “I once witnessed an imposing ‘jam’ of logs on the Nepisiguit River, in New Brunswick, above the Grand Falls. Here the river plunges over a precipice of eighty-five feet in height. The water above became backed up by the ‘jam’ for several miles. When the river fell the logs were left arched over the summit of the falls, wedged between the steep rocky heights which formed the river banks. Here they remained for a whole season. During the ensuing spring, when the river rose to an unprecedented height, they were suddenly started and carried away with an appalling crash; some huge logs were split entirely in halves. Below the falls the waves bound and wallow through a steep gorge for half a mile with a great swelling noise, and the passage of the timber through this rock canyon was most impressive. The sound of the huge logs striking the rock walls resembled the bombardment of a battery of artillery-and much good timber was utterly ruined by being bruised and smashed against the sides of the canyon, as the logs rushed past and were borne along by the resistless fury of the current. It was a striking spectacle to see the surging mass careering on the tumbling billows, and vaulting over the frightful brink of the cataract.”
Construction started on the Power dam in 1919 and produced power for the first time in 1921. Log drives did not stop because of the dam. In 1925 wood contractor Odilon Thériault would meet a tragic death on the river drive. While opening one of the sluices at the Nepisiguit Power Dam, Thériault was accidently carried over the dam in the raging waters of the Falls. The Gloucester Northern Light carried the story of his accident in the May 14, 1925 edition with the headline “Theriault’s Body Not Yet Found”. His body was only found 40 days later down river. The accident is recorded in the log-book at the dam. The drive of long-logs ended in 1929 but the 4 foot drive replaced the long-log drive and the 4 foot river drive on the Nepisiguit River only ended in the spring of 1965. The power station has changed ownership over the years until NB Power purchased the property. There are plans to increase the head by raising the height of the dam and spillways. The current installation generates 10 Megawatts of power.
From Route 11 take exit 304 in Bathurst. Drive away from the city on Route 430 heading west for the community of Bathurst Mines near the falls. At approximately 25 km there is a turn off to the mine itself. Continue past this an additional 1 km and the road turns sharply to the left. Follow this road passing though the small community of Bathurst Mines to the dam and falls.
Visit Detail: Finished photographing Millstream and Hadley Falls, I decided to drive out to Nepisiguit (Grand) Falls. By this time the afternoon sun rejuvenates my spirit after the cold north wind of the day previous. My last stop of the day will be Pabineau Falls and I was waiting until later in the day, when the sunlight was less harsh to photograph.
Unsure of the exact location of the falls I stopped along the road to ask directions from an elderly gentleman on his morning walk. Through his broken English I understood that Nepisiguit Falls was just up the road near the Bathurst Mines and that there are road signs. Thirty minutes and several U turns later I arrived at the community of Bathurst Mines and falls.
Parked near the hydro dam, I grabbed my camera gear and walked down an old road to a spot below the falls. There was a trail leading to an open spot with excellent views of the lower falls and the gorge. The falls is somewhat restricted from flowing through the rocky gorge by the dam. Never the less the gorge below the power plant is simply striking. Rising almost 40 metres above the river the narrow channel provides a dramatic scene with large white pine standing sentential over the river.
I spent the better part of an hour photographing the falls and gorge. I was glad I took the time to drive out to this site. Regardless of the dam, the area is well worth the visit.
Waterfall Detail: The Lepreau River is shallow and rock strewn with many rapids and waterfalls from its headwaters to where it falls into the Bay of Fundy. At Little Falls the river is constricted as it cascades through and over the exposed bedrock in a large pool. From here the river makes a sharp right hand turn before continuing towards the much larger Lepreau Falls.
Across from waterfall are large rounded boulders that provide an excellent vantage point of pool as well as the falls. These falls are not high or large but because of their location provide an element or rugged beauty.
Driving west from Saint John along Route 1 you will cross the Lepreau River. Approximately 400 metres from the bridge pull off the roadway and park. Be careful, this is a busy highway. On the opposite side of the highway is the Lepreau River.
From Route 1 walk down towards the gate in the deer fence. From the gate is a narrow trail through the woods to a large basin at the bottom of the cascade. The total distance from the highway is approximately 100 metres.
Visit Detail: It is August 2009 and my son Liam and I scurry across the busy route 1 and very carefully make our way down to the gate in the deer fence over large rock used to build the highway. From here it is a short distance through woods to the falls. Of course I am complaining because it is too sunny to photograph the waterfall.
Emerging at the river, we are struck by how nice the site is. And yet another waterfall on the Lepreau River. Albeit on the small side the site is very striking. To our right a large rock formation dominates. To the left the river narrows and cascades through and over the bedrock. In the middle is a large pool that is very inviting for a swim on this warm afternoon. The rock formation on the right forces the river to make a sharp turn.
We choose to check out the rocks on the right and from this vantage I take a few photos. We eventually stroll around the pool to the waterfall where we sit on the rocks to enjoy the show. I feel fortunate to spend quality time with my youngest child. Our effortless conversation moves from topic to topic much like trees swaying in the wind. In time we decide it is time to drive out to Little River Provincial Park for a swim.
Waterfall Detail: Laverty Falls flows across a rock face opening up to form a veil or bridal falls very similar to that found at Welsford. The brook makes a sharp left hand turn as it tumbles over a bedrock face. Tit then constricted between cliffs and large boulders before dropping over the rock face. The draping effect of the waterfall is majestic to say the least. This is an outstanding location to visit. Visitors can access the falls from the top or bottom of the falls. If visiting in the summertime, expect company! If visiting in spring expect a plethora of wild flowers across the forest floor along the trail.
From the northern entrance to the Fundy National Park near Wolfe Lake drive about 12 km along route 114. Look for Laverty Road on the left and follow it to its end at a large parking area. The trailhead is marked at the far end of the clearing next to the parking lot.
From the trailhead the hike begins a long descent through an old growth forest. There are massive old silver birch, maple and beech trees standing sentential over the newer growth. It is not until the trail begins to slope further down that makeup of the forest changes to white pine, spruce, cedar and balsam fir changing the complexion from and open expansive feeling to one that is cloistered. The trail leads to a viewpoint at the top of Laverty Falls. The trail continues down to the foot of the falls where you can access the riverbank and view the falls from the bottom.
If one wishes, they can continue to hike along the brook until it meets the Salmon River and eventually make a loop back to the parking location.
Visit Detail: On my first hike to Laverty I was with Roy Stillwell of Fredericton. Roy and I have hiked to a few other waterfalls in the past and on Thanksgiving Weekend in 2009 we decided to enjoy the holiday with a day hike to Laverty, Dickson & Third Vault Falls. It was a long day but very enjoyable.
The pictures posted are from a second set of hikes in Fundy Park in the summer of 2010. On this trip I am with my friend Gary LeClair of Sudbury Ontario and by this time in the day we had already hiked Dickson Falls and drove out to Forty Five River Falls.
This is one of my favorite hiking trails in the park. The rich forest canopy and scattered clouds shade out most of the sun making the walk comfortable. The air is clean and invigorating. We hardly exchange a word as we move along. We are both engaged in our wonderment of this beautiful trail. Meager rays of sunlight making it to the forest floor highlight summer flowers. Chipmunks, chattering in conversation scurry back and forth through the undergrowth showing their displeasure without presence.
We are both amazed by transition from hardwood to softwood. It just seems to happen quickly, indicating we are close to the falls. Arriving at the waterfall we find ourselves amongst several other visitors. With this in mind I am determined to photograph the wonderment without people in the picture. Patience is a virtue of which I sometime do not have, but here and now I must bid my time until the right moment.
On the way back from the falls the threaten rain finally arrive. We are both pretty wet by the time we reach the parking lot and the end of the shower. Dried off and a quick lunch we drive to our next destination; Third Vault Falls.